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Which plugs Wire my house X-Ray Remote 304114 wall plate FAQs BLOG Contact Us		What's the Best Coaxial cable to use for... Sky - Freesat - Freeview - Virgin - DAB - FM ? This question comes every day. If in doubt use WF100 but please read the notes first. This page includes descriptions of our cables with links to each one on its product page. You should read all of this page because you will undoubtedly save time and money by learning about the differences so you can make the right choice for you.   We offer the following cables, with or without plugs fitted: WF65 WF65 (thin) has a foam plastic "dielectric" insulator around the central copper wire. It has a screen comprising copper foil with braided copper wire on top. It is fairly flexible and will accept a bend diameter of 50mm without kinking. The outer plastic sheath is about 4.8mm in diameter so the cable is only slightly thicker than telephone cable, making it fairly unobtrusive. Its major disadvantage is a fairly high signal loss (attenuation) of up to 0.3dB/m (UHF) and up to 0.5dB/m (LNB frequencies). SatCure can supply it in twin (black or white) or single WF65-1 (white) with or without plugs. We can also offer it in short lengths, black or white, with plugs fitted to use as a decoupler. We welcome enquiries for other variants. WF65 (twin) is also available on reels. RG6 RG6 or SATDS has a hollow plastic "dielectric" insulator around the central copper wire. It has a screen comprising aluminium foil with braided copper wire on top. It is quite flexible and will accept a bend diameter of 75mm without kinking. The outer plastic sheath is about 6.7mm in diameter. Its major disadvantages are that it kinks fairly easily and corrodes outdoors unless very well protected. Its signal loss is much lower than that of WF65, however, but slightly higher than the cables listed below. SatCure offers RG6 with or without plugs fitted. RG6 is also available on reels. WF100 WF100 has a foam plastic "dielectric" insulator around the central copper wire. It has a screen comprising copper foil with braided copper wire on top. It is somewhat flexible and will accept a bend diameter of 80mm without kinking. The outer plastic sheath is about 6.8mm in diameter. WF100 twin in a choice of TWO colours is identical but has two cables joined together. (They can be peeled apart at the ends to fit plugs or to pass through individual holes.) WF100 twin is available on reels, or as cut lengths, with or without plugs. WF100 single in a choice of SIX colours Its signal loss (attenuation) is up to 0.18dB/m (UHF) and up to 0.29dB/m (LNB frequencies). WF100 is available as twin "shotgun" in black or white and as single coaxial in 6 different colours. We offer a choice of plugs supplied separately or fitted. WF100 single is also available on reels. In addition, we offer the following plugs fitted to WF100 single:- F plug and TV plug fitted RT-angle and straight TV plugs RT-angle and 'F' plug F - F plugs WF125 has a foam plastic "dielectric" insulator around the central copper wire. It has a screen comprising copper foil with braided copper wire on top. It is not very flexible and will accept a bend diameter of 100mm without kinking. The outer plastic sheath is about 7.1mm in diameter. WF125 is available only on reels, single or twin. We can not offer cut lengths. It has the advantage of slightly lower signal loss, of up to 0.16dB at UHF and up to 0.27dB at LNB frequencies. It is used mainly for longer runs where its slightly better performance is needed. It is unlikely to be useful in most domestic installations unless your signal is just borderline. Need to join or repair a cable? We supply Joint Kits. Beware We don't stock this Unfortunately, what is sold nowadays as "aerial cable" or "low loss cable" is usually a waste of money. As the price of copper has increased, so the number of copper strands used for screening has decreased. The result is cable with almost no protection from interference. You get what you pay for. You can risk "aerial cable" if it's simply going to be tacked along the skirting board (easy to replace) but keep it well away from sources of interference (especially mains power cables). However, if it's going to be "plastered in" please don't take the risk. Use something decent like WF100. (We do not sell no-name "low-loss aerial cable" but our coaxial cable is perfect for use with aerials and satellite.) Generally, the more copper, the higher the cost. Copper is very expensive. You can't reduce the cable price without reducing the copper content. "RG6" is a term often reserved for very cheap cable. If it's cheap, that's because the manufacturer skimped on the copper - not only for the foil but also for the braided copper screen. Aluminium has a higher resistance than copper so its shielding properties aren't as good and signal losses slightly higher. If the copper braid is sparse, the shielding is going to be even poorer and the signal losses even higher. Whether this will matter depends on many factors. The problem is that you won't find out until it's installed and, even if it seems OK then, a purchase of other equipment later, or moving cables around behind the TV, might generate enough interference to cause a problem. You might, for example, find that it's susceptible to a neighbour using a vacuum cleaner or electric drill. However, we stock it because it IS suitable for some applications and we don't want customers to pay more than they need to. Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend ! WEBRO Most of our copper-foil cable is manufactured by WEBRO. We do not sell cheap imitations*. (We may supply the more expensive Triax TX100 equivalent at no extra cost if Webro cable is unavailable.) *We do sell 50m reels of WF100 equivalent, which is actually HCY100 made by Hycom in China. This is made to the same specification as WF100, TX100 etc. and bears the CAI marking. Coaxial cable - all our cable is suitable for analogue or digital, cable TV, satellite or terrestrial TV and radio (but not CB radio). We do not stock so-called "low-loss TV aerial cable" or even the cheaper brands of so-called "CT100 equivalent." Cable is often a pain to replace so we want ours to do the job well and to last as long as possible. (CT100 hasn't been manufactured since 2005.) IMPORTANT Bare copper wire corrodes in the presence of moisture, air and electricity. Copper wires should always be coated with Silicone Grease before assembly. Why is WF100 cable probably the best for me? Best performance/cost ratio Foam dielectric makes it robust and reliable High copper content gives low losses and good screening Only 0.16 dB signal loss per metre at 900MHz Available in SIX colours (single) or 3 colours (twin) Available on reels or in cut lengths Recommended on many forums by users CAI approved Meets European EN50117 specification We stock only high quality 75 Ohm coaxial cable. Please continue to read these notes and choose the one that suits your needs. Is "Shotgun" twin cable better? "Shotgun" twin is just two cables bonded together. You can have it in standard diameter (approx. 6mm x 2, which needs a 14mm hole or two 10mm holes) or thin (approx. 4.8mm x 2, which passes through a 10mm hole). The choice of cable is very simple: the thicker the cable, the lower the signal loss. For best performance use our thicker (WF100) cable. For ease of installation use our thinner (WF65) cable. If aesthetics or ease of installation is more important than "rain fade resistance" then go for thin cable. What colour should I use? If cable colour matters, check what we have to offer. However, we do recommend weather protection outdoors by painting the cable or running it inside pipe or conduit, so colour choice outdoors may not matter as much. And you can, of course, join different coloured cables and thickness together with only very minimal signal loss, by using cable couplers (available individually or in our "cable joint kits"). Alternatively, you can use an 'F' connector plate indoors to join your outdoor cable and indoor cable. I already have some (unknown) cable. Can I use it for... ? Poorly shielded cable can radiate interference as well as let it in. It may also do weird things at certain frequencies. You might not notice any problem until you buy new equipment that creates or is susceptible to interference. By that time you may have forgotten this warning and you won't know where to start looking for the cause of the problem. But, if it's already plastered into your walls, please try it if you want to. If it isn't already installed, you'd be crazy to use it for a permanent installation. I want to extend my Virgin Media Cable I don't have access to specifications for Virgin cable but I believe that WF100 cable is a good substitute. Please note that Virgin Media is a rental system - you don't own it and it's probably a breach of contract to modify it. In addition, if you extend the cable significantly, you'll probably have to get a Virgin Media technician to adjust the signal levels, using a meter. Please also note that any "Virgin" cable filled with waterproof gel for outdoor use should not be used indoors because of its propensity to generate poisonous fumes in a fire. Contents Notes, above Which cable? Connectors Extension cables Cable notes Wall sockets Cable types Cable length Test/Locate cable? Which cable? Tips for installing Cable weight Questions Kinked cable? Also see our coaxial cable specifications page and How to fit an F connector page Our short cable lengths page Our cable reels page Our cable connectors page Loudspeaker or twin-flex cable click HERE HDMI cables and connectors click HERE Ethernet / CAT5 cable click HERE Firewire cable click HERE Toslink optical cable click HERE Firewire cable click HERE Mains cable click HERE Modem cable click HERE Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend ! Cable TV Our cables are suitable for satellite dish feeds so they should be fine for cable TV which uses lower frequencies. However, please note that cable TV signals (TV and/or broadband) will be lowered if you extend an existing cable. Consequently, you may need to call out a technician to adjust the signal level to compensate. Do I need special coaxial cable for HDTV? No. Indoor/Outdoor All our coaxial cable is suitable for use indoors or outdoors. However, copper-on-copper cable is known to last longer outdoors than copper-on-aluminium cable (e.g. "SATDS" or RG6 cable). Whatever cable you use, it will last longer if you protect it from sunlight. Ordinary outdoor paint provides good protection. What's the Most flexible cable? Without a doubt, the WF65 thinner cable is more flexible, but it has higher signal loss. If you can tolerate higher loss then go for it. For ordinary aerial signals, RF signals, "magic eyes", it should be fine. For LNB signals (from the dish) an excessive length will reduce your "rain margin". In other words, you can expect to lose the satellite signal in bad weather. You might be able to compensate for this with an equalised gain slope LNB amplifier or (preferred) a larger dish. You have to decide how much you really need a thinner cable. The thin cable in "shotgun" format (WF65 twin cable) will pass through a single 10mm hole, making it extremely convenient to replace a single normal coaxial cable. Ultra-thin white cable Common misconceptions "It can't be my cable at fault or all channels would be gone." Wrong! Coaxial cable carries signals of very high frequency. A cable fault (even a simple "kink") can affect specific frequencies without affecting others. "Cable is made of plastic. It lasts forever!" Wrong! Cable installed outdoors is subjected to bombardment of ultra violet radiation, infrared (heat), cold, water and wind (causing abrasion). All these combine to make the plastic go brittle and fracture. Once that happens, moisture can get inside and either corrode the metal shielding or run down inside and destroy whatever the cable is plugged in to. If you are lucky, it will last for five years outdoors! You can help it last longer by making sure it's clipped to prevent movement (but not crushed by the clips) and by painting it with a waterproof paint. You can even run it through our Alkathene conduit to give it maximum protection (and make it possible to pull a new cable through if necessary.) Keep it away from sources of heat (chimney, boiler vent, patio heater etc.) and sharp edges. Don't put it in places that trap water (gutters, troughs etc.) According to the UK regulations, coaxial cable must not be run alongside mains cable, nor in the same conduit unless there is a suitable barrier. If your electrician is qualified, he will already know this and understand what it means. Indoor cable should last indefinitely, provided that it is not buried in permanently damp plaster or exposed to heat (e.g. a nearby boiler flue, radiator or fire) and provided that it is not bent too tightly around corners or stretched/under tension. "Low-loss TV cable is perfectly OK for short runs." Be careful when making assumptions. The "bloke down the pub" isn't necessarily the expert. However, it is perfectly OK to try rubbish cable, provided that you understand that any fault it causes may not immediately be obvious. Symptoms to look out for are intermittent break up of sound/picture on some channels (especially higher frequencies). Such problems can be caused by the much higher attenuation of rubbish cable and/or by interference that it allows in. These problems may not become apparent until later when (for example) it rains, or when you replace your microwave oven or your TV set (larger sets tend to produce more interference) or you move your DECT portable phone or you fit an "energy-saver" lamp or.... you get the picture (or maybe you don't)! By the time this happens you may have forgotten all about the rubbish cable - assuming it to be fine - and waste much time and money trying to correct a "fault" that exists because of the poor cable. "You should only use Digital Cable." The description "Digital" in reference to coaxial cable is purely marketing hype and would worry me. There's obviously no such thing as "digital cable". It's about as meaningful as "digital carrot". All cable carries "digital" signals just the same as analogue signals. However, Freeview "digital" TV signals are susceptible to interference so double-screened cable should be used. Satellite (LNB) signals are much higher frequency and double-screened cable has lower losses at high frequencies than ordinary "aerial cable" or so-called "low loss aerial cable" (which is anything but!) How Can I Test / Locate my cable? Inject a strong signal into one end of the cable and use a small, portable transistor radio to detect the signal. We are planning to produce a signal injector soon. Which cable should I use? If in doubt, choose WF100, which has a foam dielectric core and good copper screening. There are situations where it might be worth paying more for WF125 but read about the drawbacks (below). Air-spaced cable, such as the (obsolete) WC100, H109F, CT100 is technically as good as WF100 but kinks more easily and its construction makes it possible for water to run from one end to the other by capillary action. (Air spaced cable is now obsolete for this reason.) WF65 is thin, kinks more easily and has much higher losses, but is handy for short runs and where the thickness matters (e.g. to fit two cables through a single 10 mm hole). Read about "thin cable", above. We supply WF65 in short single lengths or as twin "shotgun" in cut lengths or on a reel. How long can the cable be? We suggest an overall maximum length of 20 metres for WF65 cable and 40 metres for WF100 and other "6mm" cables. This suggestion is based on the typical performance of a Sky "zone 1" minidish in Manchester and the cable will pass enough signal to guarantee trouble-free reception in Manchester from Astra-2 in all but the worst weather. If you are closer to London, or use a larger dish, then you can use a longer length - but don't ask us to calculate it. This is simply a "ball park figure" (a "guesstimate"). It's also dependent on the age of the cable, local interference, accuracy of dish alignment and freedom from any obstructions in the signal path (e.g. leaves). I have quite a long run of cable and a small dish. Which cable should I use? Nobody can calculate it without knowing: The dish size and gain. Your exact location. The Tuner threshold of the Digibox. The satellite. Unfortunately, I'm hopeless at maths and these link budget calculations always leave me scratching my head. But you should be able to find several web site calculators that will do the hard part for you. Alternatively, simply try it and measure the signal that reaches the receiver. If it's too low, use a larger dish. The choice of LNB will usually make no difference to the signal level. Why is your cable more expensive than ...? The most expensive component in coaxial cable is the copper. The price of copper has increased dramatically in the last few years and continues to rise. Manufacturers might make fractional savings on plastic and manufacturing costs but they all pay the same price for copper. Our profit margin on cable is tiny so, if you find cheaper cable, it probably contains less copper. That means higher resistance and consequently higher signal losses and greater possibility of interference. If you want the best cable, look no further than ours. If you don't mind risking the effects* of interference, go for the cheapest. *In the days of analogue, "interference" might cause lines or dots on the picture - a minor annoyance. With digital, it can cause the picture and sound to "break up" completely. Digital is an "all or nothing" technology. The picture is either perfect or unwatchable. Cable length is important Even the best cable loses (attenuates) some signal so arrange it so the cable run is as short as possible. Don't leave a coil behind the TV "just in case". Every additional metre will make your "rain margin" worse! (This is less important for an aerial than for a satellite LNB because the aerial frequencies are lower - so the losses are lower.) However, leaving a coil lying around is also increasing the risk of interference - especially close to the TV set. Read about interference - click HERE. I want to join/extend my dish/aerial cable Please click HERE. Don't use an amplifier for satellite TV There are certain situations where an LNB amplifier might be required. Usually it won't help. A larger dish is better. For terrestrial TV, a masthead amplifier is often required (and is fine to use). Where RF signals must be split or boosted, an amplified splitter or a distribution amplifier may do the job. Use a larger dish To combat loss of signal due to cable length or trees, use a larger dish. We can supply a "zone 2 minidish" which is a little wider than a standard minidish but has 50% greater area. We can also supply a 60 cm "perforated" circular* (almost) dish for even more signal. We also offer an upgrade kit if you are unsure about what to buy for Freesat/SkyHD. *A dish that is circular when viewed by the LNB. Use a better terrestrial aerial In 85% of the UK, a log-periodic aerial is by far the best choice and the most likely to be successful. In only 15% of cases will a high-gain Yagi do a better job! A log-periodic is excellent in almost all cases, including caravan use.     Plugs F connectors - You can order these separately and fit them yourself or we can fit them to cut lengths of cable for you (at a small cost). We fit only the screw-on type to our custom-made lengths. You can easily unscrew the F plug to fit a weatherproofing rubber boot if required. PLEASE be sure to order the correct plug to match the cable. See notes HERE. TV plugs (IEC or Belling-Lee) - we can fit these for you to WF100 - and we supply a link where you can download instructions. Click HERE for more information about plugs if you are not certain what you have or need. We supply Extension cables (catalogue page 8) but read these notes: You can select colour, type length and add accessories if required (for each individual cable). Note: if you order a rubber boot with a pre-made cable the boot will be supplied separately. If you need to pass the lead through a hole (or fit a rubber boot) you can simply unscrew one "F" plug then screw it back on afterwards. Digital signals and analogue signals which now go as high as 2 gigahertz in frequency need a high-quality double-screened cable, as everyone knows. However, some people don't realise that the cable should preferably be a continuous length without any kinks or connectors. This applies as much to Terrestrial signals (such as "Freeview" in the UK) as it does to satellite signals. The reason is that any "discontinuity" in the cable can reflect the signal backwards which causes a cancellation of the signal, resulting in a poor "Quality" reading in the menu, picture freeze, missing bouquets and a whole range of symptoms that you probably attribute to the weather! You can even lose all picture and sound completely. If you DO join cables, please ensure that the 'F' plugs are fitted correctly and the joint (if outside) is thoroughly weatherproofed with silicone grease and self-amalgamating tape. To join cables use our 090-3078 threaded "F" barrel and two "F" connectors. We also stock a good quality wall plate with an "F" barrel fitted. Or you can buy our blank wall plates and fit your own. You can use metal or plastic wall plates. See our "Shop" for all these items. Revision YOU SHOULD NOT use ordinary brown or white "low-loss" TV coax if you want to ensure good results! Ordinary "low-loss" TV coax has only 60% shielding (no foil) and is specified to work up to only 1 GHz (not 2 GHz as required for satellite LNB signals). Obviously there's no harm in trying it if it's already fitted, but don't be surprised if the result is "pictures breaking up" or "some channels missing". (You may find that standard 'F' connectors do not fit on TV aerial cable. Also the centre core may be too thick and might damage the female connector). Many installations have already been done with wall plates. Indeed, many more will be done because it is unavoidable or because "it looks nicer" or is "more convenient". If you must use a wall plate, then the accessories below will help to avoid problems. We stock fully-shielded wall plates in ready-made and in modular form (select your desired sockets to fit into the plate bezel). Note: where it is necessary to combine aerial signals and dish LNB signals into one cable (as with a "Loft Box" or "Diplexer") then use of a decombining plate is unavoidable. We stock only the highest quality fully-shielded wall plates. SATDS (RG6) is low cost, very flexible and ideal for making short connecting leads and for runs around the house. The main drawback is that it's more easily crushed and kinked. Also, because of its aluminium and copper shield, it's very susceptible to damage in damp conditions and it's more "lossy" than other cable which uses only copper so using it for long runs (more than 30 metres) or outdoors is not recommended. WF100 has a foam plastic dielectric which makes it less susceptible to kinking. It is slightly less flexible than air-spaced dielectric but, used indoors where it's warm, it still has adequate flexibility. Used outdoors, it is less susceptible to water ingress. There is virtually no difference in electrical performance between WF100 and the obsolete H109, WC100 and CT100, but WF100 has a foam dielectric, which makes it more robust and harder to kink. It's ideal for use almost anywhere and is available in various colours but it costs a little more. It is available as single or "twin" (two cables moulded together for convenience). It's available in SIX DIFFERENT COLOURS! ( HD100 - we do not stock this cable as I can see no significant advantage over WF100.) WF65 replaces the obsolete CT63 "shotgun" cable. It is a twin cable which is very narrow diameter and can be pushed through a 10 mm hole. It requires a special "F" connector. It's fine for RF connections but not recommended for LNB runs of more than 20 metres because it loses more signal than thicker cables. This can reduce your "rain margin". In other words, you may lose the satellite signal in bad weather. (If this happens you could compensate by installing the next size larger dish). For longer runs we can supply WF100 in "twin" format. We can also supply WF65-1 as single "ultra-thin cable" so you don't need to pay for "twin" unless you need to. IMPORTANT: The copper core (centre wire) of WF65 is thinner than that of other cable. If you connect it to an LNB or tuner that has for years been home to a thicker coax core wire it may not make a reliable connection! You may need to double it over to make it thicker. "Shotgun" WF65 has significant losses at LNB frequencies (hence my recommendation to limit runs to about 20 metres for LNBs) but its losses at UHF frequencies are much lower. At only 4.5 mm diameter, "shotgun" is a convenient and unobtrusive cable to use for indoor runs. The only slight problem is to fit a TV plug to it in a sensible fashion. I recommend soldering or use the type of plug that has a screw. (Of course our "special" 'F' plugs are better if you can use them.) Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend ! WF125 WF125 cable is thicker, stiffer, and has lower losses than the cables above. Recommended for long LNB connections (e.g. over 40 metres) or where signal loss must be minimised. Note, however, that WF125 is stiffer and should not be connected directly to indoor equipment as it can put excessive strain on the connector. We recommend that you use a threaded coupler and a short length of more flexible cable for this connection. We supply twist-on "F" connectors for this cable. (You can not fit a rubber boot to a WF125 connector so use self-amalgamating tape if it needs to be waterproof). WF125 can be connected directly to the LNB but the same comments about additional weight and stiffness apply. It can put extra strain on the connector and the extra weight can cause the LNB support arm to bend. For long cable runs of any cable, an equalised slope amplifier may be needed to combat cable attenuation (which is greater at higher frequencies - hence the need for an "equalised slope amplifier", which amplifies higher frequencies more than lower ones). However, since an amplifier also adds electrical noise to the signal, it is invariably better to use a slightly larger dish than to use an amplifier. LNB sliding cover LNB sliding plastic drip covers don't fully protect the connections from rain or condensation so you should use silicone grease on the LNB connections. Without a sliding cover, use self-amalgamating tape (or rubber boots if you are not using WF125 cable). What's the best cable? Read the review Please note that SATDS, WF125 and CT63/WF65 are not included in the review. How long can a cable be before loss of picture quality occurs? This comes under the category of "how long is a piece of string". Basically, there's no answer unless you know the input signal level and the minimum output signal level required. You can then work it out by looking at the loss per metre. For our WC100/WF100 cables, the loss is about 13 dB/100m at 470 MHz (typical UHF) and around 27 dB/100m at 1750 MHz (typical satellite LNB frequency). SATDS is fractionally worse. and WF65 is a lot worse. So, if your UHF signal is only just high enough and you decide to add, say, another 46 metres of cable, you'll need a 6 dB amplifier to compensate for cable losses. Which cable? WC100 with air-spaced clear plastic dielectric (obsolete). WF100 with foam white plastic dielectric. For the outdoor connection, BskyB recommend a *minimum* specification of "WF100". This has lower losses than, say, "SATDS/RG6" and uses double (copper-on-copper) shielding. It has a foam plastic dielectric whereas the air-spaced dielectric of other cables kinks more easily than foam dielectric and also, if water gets into the cable, it can run down the air spaces and into the equipment! "WF100" is better as it uses a foam dielectric and is less prone to moisture ingress and it is less easily kinked. However, it costs slightly more than other cables. Cable such as "SATDS/RG6" is OK for indoor use but can suffer from corrosion outside because it uses aluminium-on-copper shielding. As the PVC sheath ages and cracks in the presence of wind, rain and UV radiation from the sun, moisture will get into the cable and corrosion will accelerate, forming hard lumps inside which crush the inner air-spaced insulator. At such points, "discontinuities" occur which will block or reflect the digital signals, causing serious affects to the picture and sound on some or all channels. You can use any of our cables outdoors, provided that you protect it from sunlight and rodents. Best to clip it high on a wall, in maximum shade, and paint it with an oil-based paint to protect it from the effects of ultraviolet and rain. If it has to go underground you MUST put it in water-free trunking to protect it from rodents and small animals, who will chew it, and from water and soil microbes. You can use any of our cables indoors. Tips for installing cable: Support it at least every 0.5m to prevent sagging Outdoors, it will last longer if you run it inside conduit or paint it to protect against UV. Don't make tight bends or kink or crush the cable Keep it away from any source of heat such as a boiler vent Don't run it in a gutter where it will lie in water Use the correct 'F' plugs and fill them with silicone grease outdoors Keep it well away from mains cables (minimum 250mm if run parallel).   We don't recommend using standard "low-loss aerial coax" as used for receiving analogue television transmissions" as it is only single-screened. This "TV aerial coax" has only 60% shielding (at best) from external interference. Digital "Freeview" transmissions are very susceptible to "impulse" interference from light switches, street lighting of the gas-discharge variety, thermostatic switches (e.g., central heating boilers), vehicle ignition (main road traffic), and generally from 230v mains wiring. The terrestrial aerial must be kept away from the road and the cable must be kept away from other wiring. It should preferably have no joints and definitely no unscreened connections. Sky Digital can suffer from interference from DECT phones and police-radar defeaters as used illegally in some vehicles. For coaxial connections between the Digibox and other equipment you should still use double-screened cable. This will give the lowest signal loss, the lowest interference pickup and it's specified for Digital Terrestrial and for "SkyLink" systems such as our "DigiLink" and "SLXlink" (and the Global "tvLINK") as well as LNB/DISH feeds. Safety You should follow the UK Electrical Wiring Regulations advice with regard to "Proximity to electrical services" and keep all coaxial cable away from mains wiring or run it separately in a metal conduit. (Any qualified electrician will know about this but it's in paragraph 528 of the regulations.) Weight of cable Copper-on-copper 7 mm coax weighs 47.7g/m (4.77 kg/100m) Copper-on-aluminium 7 mm coax weighs 42.5g/m (4.25 kg/100m) An empty cardboard 100m reel weighs (typically) 200g. 250m reels are normally made from wood and weigh a lot more. See our COAXIAL CABLE SPECIFICATIONS page. What's the best cable? Read the review If you are suffering from interference on TV pictures, please click on this link. We do not currently stock CT167 or any cable with a core diameter of more than 1.25 mm because this type of cable is generally not necessary for DIY and because it requires special connectors. You can't simply twist on an "F" connector. It needs the correct crimp connector and the correct tool to crimp it. This cable is very expensive and is used mostly for SMATV systems and transmission stations. Our Cable page is HERE  Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend !