Powermid XL problems?

Powermid XL problems?

 
 

If you are having problems with a Powermid XL system purchased from SatCure, these notes may help you.

As with all radio devices, the Powermid remote control extender units are vulnerable to interference from other devices and to signal blocking. Test the receiver and transmitter close to each other if you think that range or interference may be a problem. Switch off or move any wireless devices such as DECT telephone, wireless routers etc. (Some TV sets and DVD recorders can also generate interference.)

Many houses are constructed with foil-backed plasterboard on the walls and ceiling. Chicken wire is often used to support ceiling insulation and wall plaster. You can check for this with a low-cost "pipe locator" from your local DIY store. The presence of foil or wire mesh will block most of the signal. If this occurs in your house you should try to position the Powermid units where the signal can not be blocked. Sometimes it is possible to place them on window ledges so that the signal goes out of window and is reflected, by a wall opposite, back through the other window.

If placement proves to be impossible, it may be feasible to remove at least part of the offending metal foil or mesh during the next renovation or decorating work. However, foil is often used to minimise damp ingress and heat loss so take advice from an expert.

The transmitted power is limited by law and it is not possible to increase it. However, fully extending both aerials and ensuring correct (matching) orientation will improve the range.

If you are suffering interference from a neighbour using a Powermid XL system, you can try telescoping the aerials to minimum length and direct them both horizontally away from the neighbour's units. Get him to do the same. If this doesn't help, try putting your aerials horizontal and his vertical, or vice-versa. Maximise the distance between your units and the neighbour's.

Powermid XL base

Occasionally vibration or impact during transit can cause minor damage inside a unit. This is usually restricted to a broken connection, which can easily be re-soldered.

The assembly screws are hidden by the rubber feet. Remove these rubber discs by gently lifting them with a pointed blade. Do not point the blade towards yourself while applying pressure!

Powermid XL screws

Tip: The Powermid XL units are not interchangeable with the earlier Powermid units. Check the labels to ensure that all units are the XL type.

Tip: Make sure that you have a transmitter and a receiver.

Carefully remove the four crosshead screws using a #1 Pozidriv screwdriver (not Philips) or a pointed blade as in the photo above. When applying pressure, ensure that the point does not slip and injure you!

Powermid XL inside

Check inside to ensure that no wires have become detached and that the triple LED assembly is secure.

If there is a simple fault, you may be able to fix it yourself, thus avoiding the hassle of returning the unit to us.

(Your warranty is not affected, provided that the units are returned to us in "as received" condition).

Powermid XL capacitor failure

Older units may suffer failure of the electrolytic capacitor (blue arrow). You can see that the aluminium surface of the one in the picture is bulging slightly. It is domed instead of flat - compare it with its neighbour.

This is a sure sign that the capacitor has overheated. Replacement is quite straightforward. Remove the two screws that hold the mains cable bridge clamp. Lift out and invert the printed circuit board. Use our Solder kit and soldering iron to remove BOTH capacitors, noting the stripe along the body. (This marks the negative connection which must be soldered into the hole that is connected to the largest area of copper underneath).

Replacement capacitors are available from SatCure. Click HERE.

It is important to replace bulging capacitors BEFORE they burst so please look inside and inspect your transmitter every 12 months if you want to avoid the possibility of failure. The typical life of an electrolytic capacitor in a warm room can be as little as two years. Keeping the units cooler will increase the life (but this is usually not practical).

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