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Which plugs Wire my house X-Ray Remote 304114 wall plate FAQs BLOG Contact Us		TV Wall Plates  Jump to decombiner plates A Plate to Avoid! A plate such as this has no screened connection so interference can get in and out and there will be a significant impedance mismatch. This poor design can cause weak signal, interference, loss of picture and other symptoms. AVOID! "I can say from experience: don't buy the [unscreened] wall plates unless you want no signal every time anyone within 10m sends/receives a text or makes a call on their mobile." (It is designed for American UHF TV and NOT for satellite TV but many unscrupulous or ignorant dealers are offering it as suitable for satellite. You might get away with it but why take the risk?) See the safe alternatives. Click HERE. Any plate has to be better than this! Do you want a double 'F' socket plate? There are three types available:- 1. The plain S122-327 wall plate where the cables come directly through the wall from the outside and screw onto the back of the plate. This plate simply has two straight-through threaded connectors. If you are handy, you could drill a blank plate and fit the connectors yourself. It could be used for cables entering from the top or side but you'd need to use right-angle 'F' adapters, which take up quite a lot of room in the back box. 2. The 100-00678 Maxview plate where the cable comes down inside the internal wall (plaster or dry-lining) and you fit it into the connections by stripping and fiddling with screws. 3. The Vision V33-23PLUS where, again, the cable comes down the inside wall. This type also includes a TV socket (which you don't have to use). If you do want the TV signal, you have to combine it with one of the satellite feeds by using a DIP2 diplexer or similar combiner unit. 4. There's a fourth option: the modular type, where you can fit two "F" socket modules to a fascia plate. Standard Wall plate wiring This is our 100-00677 screened flush TV + SAT wall plate. It is NOT a decombiner plate. The TV socket (female) and F socket (threaded female) are entirely separate and each needs its own cable. We recommend that you fit this to the deepest wall box available. A 25 mm deep box is just about deep enough but deeper is better. The reason is that your double-shielded cables will come down the wall and into the box with very little room to spare. They are not very flexible so you must cut them to the correct length. The photograph shows our suggested method. Note that the H109 cable (=WC100, CT100 with air-spaced dielectric) has kinked (red arrow) so we recommend using our more flexible aluminium shielded cable or less flexible WF100 cable. A kink, like the one shown, can have a very bad effect on digital signals. Better still, run the cables outside the box, bring them in underneath, and keep the bend radii large. Since a kinked cable generally has a far worse effect than using a cable with slightly higher losses, what I would do is use a proper threaded coupler and join a short length of thin WF65-1 cable to the thicker cable. The thin cable has double the signal loss of the thicker cable but twice negligible is still negligible. The thinner cable is much easier to route as it's more flexible and less likely to kink. Make the joint properly with threaded 'F' plugs and silicone grease to keep out moisture and it will be perfect. (Most wall plates are designed so the cables have to enter them from below. This can be awkward if the cables are running down behind "dry lining" or similar. You need to leave plenty of room for gentle loops going below the plate and back up. take great care not to kink the cables.) You can also rotate the wall plates (but bear in mind any markings will also be rotated so they might not look as nice). Strip the cable sheath away for 25 mm. Fold the copper braid back over the sheath. Strip the white plastic dielectric insulation back to leave 5 mm of copper core wire exposed. Trim the braided copper shield back to leave 5 mm of clear plastic insulator exposed. Insert the centre copper wire into the central screw turret. Tighten the screw. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! A common cause of problems is that the centre conductor is sheared off by the screw. It looks as if it's still connected but you get intermittent loss of signal. Ensure that no copper strands can touch the copper core wire or screw turret. Fit the second cable in the same way then close the hinged cover and tighten each screw by only a few turns. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! The cable must be gripped but not crushed. IMPORTANT: The little metal "cage" supplied with many such wall plates is ESSENTIAL. Its purpose is to maintain the 75 Ohm impedance. For the same reason, the cable should be stripped as shown, with the copper braid and foil stretching almost up to the screw (but make sure there's no strands touching the screw). If the 75 Ohm impedance is not maintained, the resulting mismatch can cause a reduction in signal strength at selected frequencies, which might result in some channels missing or intermittent. Coat the copper wires with silicone grease before insertion. Copper oxidises even in low humidity conditions so it's sensible to protect it with this grease to prevent connection problems in the future. Decombiner plates A decombiner plate normally has a single cable going into it, which carries several signals from a diplexer or a Loft Box. These signals are separated in the wall plate and fed to their respective sockets. Other sockets are often included for inputs such as a Return feed to Loft, and a telephone connection. The illustration shows the Triax 304109 - often called a "quadplex plate" - which has a Return feed (a simple F connector which is not connected to anything else in the wall plate and can be used as an up- or down-feed for LNB or UHF) and a triplexer which comprises a single input cable feeding several signals into a separating filter circuit. This set of filters is able to separate (decombine) TV (UHF) Radio (VHF and DAB) and Satellite (LNB) signals into three outputs. Note that the LNB sockets have "DC pass" because the satellite receiver has to power the LNB. SAT2 may be labelled "Return". It is electrically separate and may be used to feed any signal, up or down. You don't have to feed all three lots of signals into the triplexer cable but it will separate them if you do. You will need a Loft Box or a diplexer (two signals) or a triplexer (three signals) combiner at the top end of the down feed cable. Triplexer diagram. The only difference is that the SAT2 connection is missing. Want to buy a plate? Click HERE   Return Note that the "Return" socket may be labelled "SAT2". It is completely separate from the decombiner connections and may be used for any purpose requiring a separate connection (and it supports DC pass-through). DC-coupling In this type of Triplex plate, only the SAT socket is DC-coupled to the (Input) cable. The TV and Radio sockets are decoupled with capacitors so that the LNB voltage can not get through and cause damage. This type of socket can NOT pass voltage up the Input cable to a UHF TV amplifier. This is the Triax 304110 wall plate with all options. It fits on a double-width pattress box. Other single-width wall plates with less options are available. You can, of course, use two wall plates to give a combination of options. First the socket assembly must be removed from the front plate. It is held by a single screw. Prepare the cable by stripping 11 mm of outer sheath away then cut through the copper shields and inner insulator to leave roughly 6 mm of the centre core exposed. Make sure that no strand of copper can touch the centre core! Cut the centre core at an angle to make a sharp point. Push it firmly into the socket without bending the wire. Tighten the screw gently to hold the centre core. (Some units don't have screws but rely on spring contacts inside). Fit the second cable in the same way then screw down the clamp so that it holds the copper screen firmly but without crushing it. The socket assembly can then be turned over and the plate screwed back onto it. Notes: See notes for 304109, above. Coat the copper wires with silicone grease before insertion. Copper oxidises even in low humidity conditions so it's sensible to protect it with this grease to prevent connection problems in the future. Decombiner (diplex or triplex) wall plates can be used only in conjunction with a Diplexer or a Loft Box which will combine the signals into one cable. Only double-screened cable should be used. Ordinary "TV aerial cable" has poor shielding properties and will not carry high frequency LNB signals. The cables enter the socket from below. This means that you will either have to plan the cable route carefully, or else mount the plate upside down so the cables enter from above! The cables must not be kinked. Do not make bends of less than the recommended radius (coffee mug size, absolute minimum). Where a plate is combining SAT (LNB) and other feeds into one cable, only the SAT socket can be DC-coupled. If you require a plate with a DC-coupled TV socket you must use a "Return" feed or use a plate which does not combine the SAT feed with the TV feed into one cable. The telephone wires should be pressed into place, without stripping the coloured insulation, using a Krone tool. As an alternative, you may be able to use a thin blade with a hacksaw cut down its centre. The V36-102 is the equivalent of our GLO28 decombiner plate. It has one cable entry. The cable is split out to two female IEC sockets for Radio and TV. The cable clamp is hinged. Fold the cable clamp down and partially tighten the screw. Prepare the cable in the usual way (as for an F connector) and insert it into the active hole of the two (one is an unused dummy). Tighten the clamp screw so that it just nips the copper shielding braid. Do not over tighten or you will crush the cable. Modular Wall Plates Prepare the cable end by cutting as shown, leaving only 6 mm of bare copper wire protruding. Do not cut into the copper wire or it may fracture later! Remove 7mm of outer sheath, as shown. Make sure that no strand of copper braid can touch the inner copper wire. With a #1 cross-head Pozidriv screwdriver, slacken the centre screw until the hole in the terminal is unobstructed. Slide the copper wire in just far enough so you can see the end of it. It should not protrude. Tighten the screw sufficiently to clamp the wire. Do not over-tighten or the wire may fracture later. Make sure that the red captive washers are tight against the inside of the hinged flap. Make sure the little metal cage is fitted. This ensures that the 75 Ohm impedance is maintained. Without this, you may get weak signal problems on some channels. Close the hinged flap and tighten the screws so that the protruding metal wedge clamps the copper braid NOT the outer plastic sheath of the cable. Do NOT over-tighten. The cross-section of the cable must remain circular otherwise impedance mismatch will occur. Note the badly designed plastic clip. I recommend filing this down, before you begin, so that it doesn't kink the cable. Use the deepest back box you can find. If your cables are not loose enough to be pushed up into the conduit, leave them long and... ... loop them like this so they cross over and enter the socket from below. This will give sufficient flexibility for the plate to be screwed into place without kinking the cables. A different design of wall plate is available. Click HERE for video. Coat the copper wires with silicone grease before insertion. Copper oxidises even in low humidity conditions so it's sensible to protect it with this grease to prevent connection problems in the future. Please CLICK HERE for more information about wall plates.   Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend !